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Skincare SOS: Answers to your skin queries

While fatigue can worsen dark circles under the eyes, the cause is likely to be one of the following: sun exposure, thickness of the skin under the eyes, genetics, and/or pigment. There are some things you can do to slightly reduce the appearance of dark circles, but unfortunately, topical skin care products won’t remove them completely. So what can you do? One option is to try a serum that contains retinyl palmitate. An ester or fatty form of vitamin A, it can help thicken the thin skin around the orbital bone so that blood pooling under the eyes is less noticeable. An eye cream or serum that contains caffeine can also increase blood flow under the skin to prevent blood pooling and lighten dark areas. If the root of the problem is pigment, be extra careful when using SPF to avoid UV exposure that will darken the under-eye area. Look for products with brightening ingredients including vitamin C, peptides and licorice root extract to fight darkness. You may also consider using a jade roller to massage the under-eye area and promote lymphatic drainage.

Help! I have an ingrown hair and I don’t know what to do!

Ingrown hairs occur after using hair removal techniques such as shaving and occur when hair grows downwards or sideways back into the skin and becomes trapped. They are usually harmless, but stay away as excessive brushing can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and infection from bacteria entering the pore. Exfoliating regularly can help prevent ingrown hairs. Try a salicylic acid-based cleanser the day before you wax or shave, because salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (which exfoliates the skin, removes dead skin cells, and prevents clogging of hair follicles). For ingrown hairs that you already have, use an alpha hydroxy acid product to remove dead skin cells and release trapped hair. Loose clothing can help you avoid further skin irritation and apply a rich body cream to soothe and hydrate your skin.

My skin is quite sensitive – does that mean I should avoid exfoliating altogether?

No, but be careful about the type of products you use and don’t overdo it. Exfoliating acids are more suitable for sensitive skin types than traditional scrubs, as they are more gentle on the delicate skin barrier. Exfoliating acids are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) and Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHA) which work by dissolving the ‘glue’ otherwise known as desmosomes that keeps dead skin cells attached to each other. While each type has its pros and cons, mandelic acid is a good one to try if you have sensitive skin, as it has a larger molecular size than other AHAs and is therefore less able to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin and cause irritation. Always test the product first to make sure it doesn’t cause irritation, then stick to using it once a week at first to let your skin acclimate. Then you can increase the use to 2-3 times a week.

I’m on a tight skin care budget – what products are really essential in my daily routine?

Many of us are looking for ways to stretch our budget right now, but fear not—your skincare doesn’t have to involve 10+ steps and countless products to get great results. Two things that are non-negotiable in any regimen are a nourishing cleanser and SPF. These don’t have to be expensive products to be effective, and there are a wide range of good budget options on the market. The only rules here are to make sure they are suitable for your skin purposes and that you use them as directed. The hydrating, antioxidant-rich serum is a great addition to your skin’s health and anti-aging benefits. Since serums are the most powerful and active ingredient in any daily skin care product, they should be the biggest part of your budget. However, if you go for an ophthalmic formula (meaning it’s been tested and is safe to use around the eyes), you’ll also save yourself from having to spend more money on an eye cream.

I have used retinol for years but am now expecting a baby – what is a pregnancy safe alternative?

Congratulations! Vitamin A is one ingredient we recommend avoiding during pregnancy, but there are some great alternatives to keep your skin looking fresh while you’re holding your little human. Peptides are chains of amino acids that boost collagen production to firm skin. Considered safe to use during pregnancy, you can find them in serums and moisturizers such as Herbivore’s moon fruit Alternative Serum 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol. Plant-based bacuchiol is another option that has been found to be just as effective as retinol in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.*

Although studies have shown that bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol**, research on the use of bakuchiol during pregnancy is still in its infancy, so check with your GP or dermatologist if you are unsure.

A nerd’s choice

In terms of fighting bacteria and inflammation, the sooner you treat a clogged pore, the less likely it is to turn into a blemish. For this reason, prioritize preventative skin care that will help you keep your skin as clean as possible. A product that is perfect for this task Triacin Control Cream. Triacin, part of the Citrine Derma line, is a smoothing and exfoliating lotion enriched with salicylic acid and niacinamide to remove excess oil, reduce congestion and clear pores of dirt and debris. Triacin, which also contains retinyl palmitate, can help improve skin tone and even out any existing blemishes and blemishes. As always, but especially with salicylic acid, be sure to use SPF carefully when using this product.

  • Triacine Control, €19.95, citrinehealthcare.com

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